Hope everyone is well. We just got back from Japan. Corey brought a friend, and it was quite an experience having two 13 year olds in a foreign culture...well actually two 13 year olds for 10 days anywhere would be an experience. But, we all returned as friends so all is well.
We spent 3 days in Tokyo, 2 days in Nikko, and one day in Kamakura. The Kamakura stay was the most interesting. Unfortunately, Dad left the charger for the camera at the hotel in Narita, so we had to rely on disposable cameras for what would have been some remarkable photos. For dinner, the waitress,( geisha) set up in our suite, on a slightly elevated table. We sat on the floor in traditional Japanese fashion. She served us all, many courses of traditional Japanese treats. More than some of which were not recognizable to most of us. At the time, I was thinking it would have been neat to have nametags on them. In retrospect however it was probably just as well to eat in mystery. As Rae and I struggled to eat with good humour, and a sense of adventure, our charges looked on in horror, no adventure, and little humour. After bribery, belittling, and threats, they each ate some things that they probably would not have ordered at Dicks. Alec, Corey’s friend, found that rice drenched in enough Soy Sauce could be quite palatable. Corey shared his relish to some extent, but also liked the Tempura...all but the whole little fish. He did, to my pride though, eat a couple pieces of sushi. I forget what I offered him as a trade off, but I’m certain he will remind me soon enough.

The next morning, we went downstaire to enjoy the breakfast that had been provided as part of our room package. As you can surmise, we were all rather hungry. You can probably see where this is all going… we were led to a prepared table where we found A TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BREAKFAST! Again, not wishing to adversely influence our 13 year olds perceptions, Rae and I courageously dug in, all the while saying…”You know, this really is pretty good”. I’m wondering if my parents were equally easy to see through. The game was up when I had the traditional Japanese egg. You know, I want to say, “,I like eggs”. I even prefer them somewhat runny.. But, how does someone cook the yolk while leaving the white uncooked. It occurs to me that I did leave out one critique from the previous evenings meal. I used to eat snails, and with enough butter and garlic, found them...oh,... so... French. Not great fare...but very,, well...French. Not long ago however, I decided that I didn’t need to be French to be a good person, and no longer order them. Imagine my dismay when I saw what appeared to be the largest snail I’d ever seen...and...each of us had one. Now, while I’m old enough to no longer be concerned about not eating Frenchly,, I didn’t want to deny Corey the opportunity to consume something that, while looking like it belonged in an aquarium, would certainly give him a sophisticated, urbane air. So, ignoring the lack of butter, or garlic, or heat, I bravely extracted the creature from it’s shell, briefly wondering if it was actually semi-alive, and popped it in my mouth. As I savored it’s nuanced flavor and texture, I came to a realization that I now knew exactly how much I’d be willing to do to make sure Corey grows up to be a proper gentleman. Corey and his friend seemed singularly un-impressed with my sacrifice, and with soy sauce dripping down their chopsticks both looked at me like I’d just stepped out of Fear Factor. While as their football coach I don’t hesitate to work them to exhaustion, I was too cowardly to insist that they try this gift from the sea. But back to breakfast...we finished up with ice cream cones, from an outside vendor, passing on the fresh squid chips. I did however make them finish up before re-entering the hotel. I do so hate to appear ungrateful.
We did have one other small adventure while on our way to Nikko. While on the express train, we noticed what seemed to be a family board the train, and sat down across from us. As we approached what we thought was our destination, we started getting our stuff together with the same bewildered, deer in the headlights look we’d had through most of the trip. Anyway, the “father” of this family, while not speaking English, noticed our bewilderment, and offered his help. He began by looking at our brochure showing the hotel we were going to be staying…” The Turtle Annex”. With much nodding and smiling, he herded us off the train, and after checking with the Visitor center sent us to the correct bus. At this point, we’re thinking,” wow, what a friendly, helpful guy”.
He was being incredibly helpful, so I tried to ask his name, and if I understood him correctly...which would be a first...his name was ,” Toshie”.
I must admit, that in my traveler’s haze, I never wondered where this guy’s family had gone. And, when he boarded our bus, I was thinking,” wow, what a coincidence that he’s going the same direction as we are”. However, when he showed us where to get off, hustling us along, and then got off with us, I’m thinking, “ this is going a bit beyond travel etiquette”. But Toshie did continue to shepherd us towards our destination, frequently checking with home owners along the way. At this point, Rae and I are exchanging glances that were not at all knowing. And my thoughts are turning towards,” it’s broad daylight, the guy is 60+ years old, gosh, I wonder if he knows karate” “ oh well, I’ve got 100 pounds on him, and Corey did have 4 years of Tae Kwan Do 5 years ago” “ nah, he’s just helping us and once we get close to the hotel, he’ll just point, smile, and say bye-bye” “ yeah, right” Rae now leans towards me with a little more urgency, having no doubt sensed my thoughts.” what should we give him...would it offend him if we offered money...i do have a box of candy from See’s. I say,” perfect...we’ll give him candy and achieve closure” we finally arrived at ,” The Turtle Annex”,...great place...Rae gives Toshie the candy, and we leave for our rooms figuring everything has been taken care of. Wishful thinking. There is a knock on the door from the clearly flustered inn keeper. With a degree of English she got the point across that our friend wasn’t going anywhere. We came back upstairs to a phone call from the, not at all flustered Owner of the Turtle, asking how we dared to bring a relative, unannounced to her home demanding a guest room for the night. This being news to us, we explained the situation as best we could, and relinquished the phone to a still flustered inn keeper. Once again we retreated to our room. Retrenching, we decided to examine the 12X16 suite for at least a half hour before venturing outside. At this point our 13 year olds are plotting how to disable our guide should we encounter him on the street. While scoffing at their plans, I find myself simply modifying them in my mind. But then, “ knock, knock”...a much more composed inn keeper asks if we could please come upstairs. With some concern that we’d be thrown out for having brought this commotion to their hotel, we stepped into the lobby. This is when we were told that Toshie insisted on buying us all a fruit drink. More about innocuous fruit drinks later. This apparently was required by the Japanese culture ...give a gift" candy” , get a gift,” fruit drink”. So we all sat around a table, drinking our drinks, smiling like loons, not understanding a single word while the sands slowly passed through a constipated hour glass. Finally, after demanding with my eyes that Corey finish his coke more quickly, we all stood, and said heartfelt goodbyes to Toshie, our guide, our confidant, and apparently our long lost relative. Returning to our room, Corey and Alec immediately resumed their contingency plans for a future reunion with our long lost relative, Toshie.

My apologies for jumping around like this, but it occurs to me that I’ve not disclosed the primary goal for this trip...the climbing of Mt. Fuji. This too was a story.
Rae, Corey, and Alec girded for the climb while Bill offered much encouragement. When the day arrived they got all their stuff together and along with about 80 other people headed off to Mt. Fuji on 2 buses. The rest of this narrative is second hand, because while they headed off to their adventure, Bill watched CNN, and made use of the foot massager. But, on to the story… the buses take the climbers to the 5th level they then set off through the 9th level, in theory, from there, proceeding to the summit. At each level, there are huts to provide comfort and a place to sleep during this 12 hour climb. This comfort level fluctuates wildly, from Spartan to Nightmarish. The best provide some food, warmth, and a moderately cramped place to sleep. For 55.00. Rae and Corey located such huts, and while Corey shared accommodations in the bath room along with three fellow travelers, he had no complaints. Rae found a more reasonable 2X5 space to spread out. All in all, luxurious compared to what Alec found. At this time it would be appropriate to mention that during this particular climb, there was a typhoon, blasting rain and 60 mph winds into the climbers. When Alec approached his hut, the keeper demanded the same 55.00. no money, no stay. Fair enough, but when she demanded that all the climbers strip to their underwear, everyone started looking for a motel 6...to no avail. Once inside they were greeted with NO HEAT, and NO FOOD. So everyone shared their power bars and stuff, and while no one died, everyone shivered and huddled together in their underwear for warmth. To rub salt in the wound, in Japan, tipping is just not done, so the climbers were unable to show their dissatisfaction by denying her.
When the climb resumed, the typhoon was still going strong, and a decision was made to halt the climb at the 8th level. While a wise decision, it was delivered in an overly polite manner, by the guides who were loath to say NO to customers.
Its been my experience that in saying no to 13 year olds, being polite leads to spotty results. Corey, not use to ambiguous statements, treated this as a suggestion, and politely continued on to level 9, by himself. While we would have been furious at the time, since everyone was separated anyway, his continued climb was presented as a fate acompli, and when all were back together in a warm bus, all was left on the mountain, mostly. What goes on on Mt. Fuji, stays on Mt. Fuji.
When the day to leave arrived, the boys and I decided to hit Narita for last minute shopping, and to see the temple. On our way back to the bus for the hotel, we stopped to get drinks.
As we all picked out what we wanted, I got a diet pepsi, Corey got an energy drink, and Alec got a Grape fruit drink. Remember I told you about fruit drinks? When we got to the counter, the lady laughed and pointed to Alec’s drink, and said,” alcoholic” “ ha-ha”. Well, we all got a good chuckle out of that. On the way back though, Alec was wondering why the same can at our hotel was okay for him to get? Why indeed? The explanation was that it wasn’t, but while he was drinking these things all we,( the adults ) noticed were these cans of grape pop. Luckily, we weren’t in the hotel that much, so I don’t think a 12 step program will be necessary.
Well, this story got WAY longer than I had anticipated, but I hope you enjoy it
And I’ll try not to kill so many trees next time.